Was there one over-riding theme at the Paris Fall 2010 show? Well, no, there never is among the eclectic showings in the City of Light. But a trend or two did emerge among the collections.
Whether they will catch on with fashionable men is anyone’s guess, but minimalism and flamboyance both found a place on the runways and may well move into the mainstream.
Givenchy’s designer Riccardo Tisci, drew inspiration once again from religion and history. His show was punctuated by a golden crown of thorns worn as a necklace and a T-shirt that showed Christ’s face, amid bold letters, “Jesus Is Lord.”
Tisci, known for his imagination, has utilized religious motifs before in his men’s lines. Last season the theme was Renaissance Italy; this season Christian themes, almost entirely in black and white, dominated. His interest in medieval history also was evident in his use of culottes.
Dior Homme’s show was also a minimalist romp, described as Amish chic. Designer Kris Van Assche remodeled the classic suit, with wide-cut vests and high trousers in the tradition of the ascetic Pennsylvania Dutch.
“I (wanted) to give the skinny black suit more fluidness, more comfort, with big coats on top in heavy materials, but I didn’t want coats that weigh 100 pounds,” the Belgian designer told The Associated Press.
His minimalist designs were cut in black, charcoal and tan. Oversized jackets with front panels that tapered into V-shapes, were matched with cut cropped pants.
Yves Saint Laurent went in the opposite direction with a Fall 2010 collection inspired by the artist as a dandy.
YSL’s creative director Stefano Pilati’s trousers featured multi pleat dhotis in gray flannel that bunched at the waistline and trailed behind. They were cut just above the ankle.
He offered artist wannabes open shearling bomber jackets, curvy pattern puffers and wrap around trenches.
British designer John Galliano drew his inspiration from Sherlock Holmes in a tip to countryman Guy Ritchie’s new film. Deersalker caps and requisite tweeds distinguished the line.
Overcoats in heavy tweeds and deerstalkers opened the show, followed by gentlemen in bowler hats and three piece suits.
Only Galliano could work flame-throwers and a gigantic magnifying glass into his show. Galliano added martial arts displays to round out the shos.
“It was a super spectacle,” said model-turned-photographer Ellen Von Unwerth. “I loved the story, the roles the guys played, and how sexy they were.”
Kris Van Assche went off on yet another tangent, contrasting razor-cut suits with plaid shirts and managed to evoke memories of Seattle grunge and Nirvana frontman Kurt Cobain
Models in oversized knit caps sported blazers with multiple lapels, their slouchy pants tucked into high-topmotorcycle boots. Others wore zip-up jackets over sweatpants — a popular legwear choice on Paris catwalks.
“I’m not a real grunge fanatic or whatever, but if grunge means deconstructed tailoring and comfort, I’m fine with that,” Van Assche, who also designs for Dior Homme, told The AP.
Rick Owens carried the flag for U.S. designers, with a clever takeoff on sweatpants, one of the few trends that may actually carry over and ignite men next season.